Chuuk Lagoon
Diving in Chuuk Lagoon (Truk)
Chuuk Lagoon, previously known as Truk Lagoon, is located in the Federated States of Micronesia. It’s renowned as one of the world’s most significant underwater museums due to its large assembly of World War II shipwrecks. Thie waters of the lagoon encapsulates a pivotal moment in military history during Operation Hailstone in February 1944.
Chuuk Lagoon was a major forward operating base of the Imperial Japanese Navy, located in the central Pacific Ocean. The lagoon’s geography offered a natural fortress, with a protective barrier reef encircling a bay that served as a safe haven for Japanese naval operations. Due to its strategic importance, it was heavily fortified with defences and served as a logistical hub throughout the early stages of the Pacific War.
Operation Hailstone
Executed on 17th and 18th February 1944, Operation Hailstone was a massive surprise attack by the United States Navy against the Japanese fleet stationed at Truk Lagoon as it was then called. Planned as a counterpart to the raids against Tarawa and aimed at neutralising Japanese operational capabilities in the Pacific, the operation involved a series of air and sea attacks over two days.
Carrier-based aircraft from the United States Navy, including bombers, torpedo planes, and fighters, launched continuous waves of attacks against Japanese ships and aircraft. The attack was devastatingly effective, catching the Japanese largely unprepared and resulting in significant destruction of naval and air power.
Ship graveyard
The aftermath of Operation Hailstone left behind an extensive array of sunken ships, aircraft, and other military equipment, transforming Chuuk Lagoon into one of the largest underwater archaeological sites in the world. More than 60 ships and 275 aircraft were sunk or destroyed, many of which remain almost intact to this day. The wrecks include a variety of auxiliary ships, freighters, destroyers, and submarines, along with fighter planes, bombers, and seaplanes.
Perhaps one of the most incredible things about the wrecks of Chuuck lagoon, is that after the war it was largely forgotten about. It was actually Jaque Cousteau that rediscovered the wrecks. It was well documented at the time that Cousteau’s team took a huge number of artefacts from the wrecks. The whereabouts of which are thought to be in a warehouse in Paris.
Among the notable wrecks are the Fujikawa Maru, a converted passenger and cargo ship that served as an aircraft ferry and repair ship, and the oil tanker Shinkoku Maru. The wrecks are scattered across the lagoon at various depths. Many sit in shallow waters suitable for recreational divers, but others are only accessible to tech divers.
The wrecks have become thriving marine habitats, providing shelter and substrates for coral growth and an abundance of marine life. This transformation from instruments of war to life-supporting ecosystems offers a poignant narrative on the power of nature to reclaim and repurpose even the remnants of human conflict.
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Getting to Chuuk Lagoon
There’s no avoiding the fact that unless you live in the Philippines or Guam, getting to Chuuk Lagoon is a very long journey. From the UK it’s usually a flight to Manilla, then a flight to Guam, then the flight to Weno. From the US you can get a flight from Hawai with American Airlines that stops at Weno. Or a flight from somewhere in the US to Guam, then another to Weno. If you’re flying from New Zealand or Australia, you can fly Air New Guinea to Port Moresby and transfer from there. You’ll be on another planet by the time you arrive regardless.
Whether you’re diving on a liveaboard or from one of the hotels, they will usually arrange to pick you up from the airport. There’s really nothing in Weno, the odd supermarket, but nothing else. It’s quite a depressing place, very run down with a lot of poverty and alcoholism. Definitely not a place to wander around in the dark.
Fujikawa Maru
The Fujikawa Maru, originally built in 1938 by Mitsubishi Corporation in Nagasaki, Japan, was a cargo ship that also served as a passenger liner between Yokohama and South America. However, with the outbreak of World War II, the ship was requisitioned by the Imperial Japanese Navy. It was converted into an aircraft ferry, tasked with transporting aircraft parts and other war materials crucial to Japan’s military efforts in the Pacific theatre.
Circumstances of the sinking
During Operation Hailstone, the Fujikawa Maru was in the process of being unloaded. As such, it was a sitting duck. It was struck by multiple torpedoes and bombs dropped by U.S. carrier-based aircraft. The bombs that hit the Fujikawa Maru caused catastrophic damage. They penetrated the shipโs hull and reached the lower cargo holds, which not only contained aircraft but also ammunition and fuel, leading to secondary explosions that sealed the fate of the vessel. The fires from these explosions would have made any firefighting efforts futile, contributing to the rapid sinking of the ship.
The wreck today
The wreck is located in relatively shallow waters, making it accessible to divers of varying skill levels. The top of the superstructure is at a depth of about 9 meters, while the deepest part of the hull reaches down to approximately 34 meters. These depths allow novice and experienced divers to explore different parts of the ship comfortably. Divers can swim through the bridge and deck areas.
Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of the Fujikawa Maru is its cargo holds, which still house the remnants of fighter aircraft, including several Mitsubishi A6M Zero fighters. They lie in various states of assembly. The holds also contain munitions and some personal effects of the crew, such as gas masks. The engine room provides a deeper dive into the mechanical workings of the ship. The engines, intricate pipework, and machinery are encrusted with marine life and coral, The iconic R2D2 is located here.
The wreck today
The San Francisco Maru rests upright on the seabed at a depth of approximately 63 meters (207 feet). The top of the deck is at 50m and the shallowest part of the wreck is the masts at 32m. Such depths make it a technical dive, though you’ll see local dive guides leading customers, all on single tanks.
On the starboard deck there are two type 95 Ha-Go tanks. Next to the tanks on the starboard side is a 1.5 ton 4×2 Isuzu Type 94 flatbed truck. On the port side sits another tank. The cargo holds contain various munitions, bombs, and artillery shells. Hold number two has two partially collapsed flatbed trucks. There used to be a lot of hemispherical mines in the cargo holds, but they were removed by locals. One of the highlights of the wreck is the large engine room, which is easily acceible through the skylights. Towards the stern, evidence of where the bomb hit is visible. Hold number four contains torpedoes, and the doghouse at the stern, though collapsed, contains lanterns in various states of preservation.
The wreck today
The Aikoku Maru now lies upright at a depth of 65 meters. The bow was destroyed in the explosion. The shallowest part of the wreck is the collapsed smokestack at 40m. Aft of the smokestack, the superstructure is intact and areas to explore include several cargo holds, the engine room, the auxhillary steering at the stern and the anti-aircraft gun that is still pointing up as it was on the day it sank.
Many of the human remains were removed in 1980, but some still remain, so when diving the wreck please respect that it’s a war grave.
The Wreck Today
The Bridge
The highlight of a dive is the bridge, which is fairly intact. The helm is still standing and is a sought-after place for photographers. Below the bridge lies the officers’ quarters and the galley. Personal items of the crew are still visible.
Marine Life
Unsurprisingly, the Nippo Maru is covered in marine life- such as sponges and coral, and larger pelagics are often seen, such as eagle rays and sometimes dolphins.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck lies upright at depths ranging from 15 to 50 metres. Its holds contain well-preserved artefacts such as trucks, machinery, and building materials, making it a favourite dive site in Chuuk Lagoon. Coral and sponges now cover the structure, and large schools of fish frequent the wreck.
The wreck today
The Unkai Maru rests upright on the seabed at 40 metres. The wreck is notable for its well-preserved structure, with the bow gun still intact and the cargo holds accessible to divers. The ship’s superstructure and masts are encrusted with a variety of corals and sponges, attracting diverse marine life. The relatively shallow depth and upright position make it a popular dive site.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Hanakawa Maru rests upright on the seabed at a depth of approximately 30 metres. The ship is relatively intact, with notable features such as a short-barrel 4.7-inch anti-submarine gun mounted on the stern. The wreck is rarely dived due to its location, over an hour away by boat from the main lagoon, and the presence of residual aviation fuel that can pose hazards to divers.
The wreck today
The wreck of the Fumizuki now lies on its starboard side at a depth of approximately 35 metres in Chuuk Lagoon. The hull remains largely intact, with the main armament and torpedo tubes still visible. The superstructure has suffered damage, likely from the attacks and subsequent sinking. The wreck has become encrusted with coral and marine growth, attracting a variety of sea life, making it a notable dive site for those exploring the underwater relics of Chuuk Lagoon.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of I-169 rests on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon at a depth of approximately 40 metres. The submarine remains largely intact, with the hull and conning tower well-preserved. As a war grave, the site is treated with respect by divers, and penetration into the wreck is generally discouraged. The exterior is encrusted with coral and marine growth, attracting various sea life, which has transformed the submarine into an artificial reef.
The I-169 serves as a poignant underwater memorial, and a reminder to divers that Chuuk lagoon was a place of great suffering- easy to forget when enjoying relaxing dives in tropical water.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Amagisan Maru rests on the seabed at depths ranging from approximately 29 metres at the deck to 58 metres at the sand bottom. The ship lies with a significant port list of at least 45 degrees. The bow area is shallower, with the deck at 29 metres and the sand at 42 metres, while the stern is deeper, with the deck at 52 metres and the sand at 58 metres.
The wreck is largely intact, with notable features including a large bow gun and accessible cargo holds containing trucks, aircraft parts, and fuel drums. The superstructure is encrusted with coral and marine growth, attracting diverse sea life. The Amagisan Maru is a popular dive site in Chuuk Lagoon.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Shotan Maru lies upright on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon at depths ranging from approximately 36 to 50 metres. The ship’s structure is relatively intact, with the stern gun still in place and much of the railing preserved. The forward holds contain remnants of trucks and a large mobile compressor, though these artefacts are in a deteriorated state.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Seiko Maru rests upright on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon at around 49 metres. The ship’s structure is relatively intact, with the deck and superstructure encrusted with coral and marine growth.
Divers can explore the cargo holds, which contain remnants of wartime supplies, including fuel drums and machinery parts. The engine room and bridge are accessible, offering insights into the ship’s operational areas.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Kiyosumi Maru lies on its port side on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon, with depths ranging from approximately 15 to 30 metres. The ship’s structure is relatively intact, with accessible cargo holds containing remnants of military supplies and vehicles. The superstructure is encrusted with coral and marine growth, attracting diverse sea life. The wreck’s relatively shallow depth and preserved state make it a popular dive site.
The wreck today
Today, the Shinkoku Maru rests upright on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon at depths ranging from approximately 12 metres at the bridge to 40 metres at the main deck. The wreck is renowned for its excellent preservation and vibrant marine life, with extensive coral and sponge growth adorning its structure.
Divers can explore various sections, including the bridge, engine room, and medical bay, where artefacts such as medical supplies remain visible. The relatively shallow depth and upright position make it accessible to divers of varying experience levels, contributing to its status as one of the most celebrated wrecks in Chuuk Lagoon.
The wreck today
Today, the Gosei Maru lies on its port side along a sloping seabed in Chuuk Lagoon, with depths ranging from approximately 6 metres at the stern to 34 metres at the bow. The shallow stern section, with its exposed rudder and propeller, is easily accessible and offers excellent photographic opportunities.
The forward holds contain remnants of its wartime cargo, including torpedoes, though many were destroyed in 1976 to eliminate the risk of detonation.ย ย The wreck is encrusted with coral and serves as a habitat for diverse marine life, making it a compelling site for divers exploring the historical underwater landscape of Chuuk Lagoon.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Momokawa Maru lies on its port side at a depth of approximately 43 metres. The ship’s structure is relatively intact, with notable features including the most intact bridge house among the wrecks in the lagoon. The cargo holds contain remnants of wartime materials, such as aircraft parts and truck frames.
The wreck today
The wreck of Oite was discovered on 1 March 1986 by Blue Lagoon dive operator Gradvin Aisek and researcher Tomoyuki Yoshimura. It rests upright on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon at depths ranging from approximately 50 to 64 metres. The ship’s structure is relatively intact, with notable features such as the forward gun and torpedo tubes still visible.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Rio de Janeiro Maru rests on its starboard side at a depth of approximately 35 metres. The vessel’s structure remains relatively intact, with notable features such as a large bow gun and expansive cargo holds accessible to divers.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Heian Maru rests on its port side at depths ranging from approximately 10 to 35 metres. As the largest shipwreck in the lagoon, it offers divers extensive areas to explore, including the bridge, engine room, and cargo holds. Notably, the holds contain artifacts such as torpedoes, periscopes, and other submarine-related equipment, reflecting its role as a submarine tender.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Kensho Maru rests upright on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon at depths ranging from approximately 12 to 40 metres. The ship’s structure is relatively intact, with the engine room and cargo holds accessible to divers. Artifacts such as machinery parts and medical supplies can still be found within the holds, offering insights into the vessel’s operational history.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Fujisan Maru rests upright on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon at depths ranging from approximately 37 metres at the superstructure to 60 metres at the sand bottom. The ship’s structure remains relatively intact, with notable features including the engine order telegraph still signaling “full ahead,” and machine guns with scattered ammunition, indicating the crew’s futile defence efforts.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Nagano Maru rests upright on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon at depths ranging from approximately 43 to 64 metres. The ship’s structure remains relatively intact, with accessible cargo holds containing remnants of wartime materials, such as vehicles and machinery parts.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Yamagiri Maru rests on its port side at depths ranging from approximately 15 to 34 meters. The ship’s structure remains relatively intact, with accessible cargo holds containing 18-inch diameter artillery shells intended for battleships, including the Musashi. The engine room and bridge are also accessible, offering insights into the ship’s operational areas.
The wreck today
The wreck of the Hoyo Maru now lies upright at depths ranging from 15 to 35 metres. Divers exploring the wreck can observe remnants of its wartime cargo, including spare parts, machinery, and oil barrels scattered around the holds and seabed. The superstructure, although damaged, remains partially intact and accessible to experienced divers.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Kikukawa Maru rests on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon at a depth of approximately 36.5 meters (120 feet). The front half of the ship lies on an underwater hill, while the aft section was destroyed in the explosion. Inside the forward hull, divers can find oil drums, a compressor, and other equipment. Aircraft parts, including bodies, propellers, engines, and wheels, are scattered on the ocean floor around the wreck, along with a truck amidst the debris.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Sankisan Maru rests upright on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon at depths ranging from approximately 3 to 48 meters. The forward holds contain various artifacts, including aircraft parts such as engines and wings, boxes of ammunition, and medicine bottles. Trucks and other vehicles are also present on the deck. The masts extend close to the surface and are adorned with vibrant coral formations, attracting a diverse array of marine life.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Yubae Maru rests upright on the seabed at depths ranging from 24 to 35 meters. The ship’s structure remains relatively intact, with accessible cargo holds containing remnants of wartime materials.
The wreck today
The wreck of the Katsuragisan Maru rests upright on the seabed on the outer edges of Chuuk Lagoon, with depths ranging from 51 to 68 meters. The depth makes it one of the deeper wrecks in the lagoon, often attracting technical divers. The vessel’s superstructure has collapsed, but notable features such as the stern gun remain visible, providing a glimpse into its wartime role. Due to its location near the lagoon’s northeastern pass, strong currents are common, and the site is less frequently visited compared to shallower wrecks in the area.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Reiyo Maru rests upright on the seabed of Chuuk Lagoon, with depths ranging from 53 meters at the shallowest point to 67 meters at the deepest. The ship’s structure remains relatively intact.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Betty bomber rests upright on the seabed at a depth of 15 to 18 metres. The fuselage is largely intact, though the tail section is detached and lies nearby. The cockpit area retains remnants of the pilot’s seat and instrument panels, offering divers a glimpse into the aircraft’s operational features. The wings are still in place, with one propeller blade bent, likely indicating the force of the crash. The engines are on the seabed a shot swim away, and other items lie scattered on the sea bed, including a radio, machine guns, and even a toilet.
The wreck today
Today, the wreck of the Emily flying boat rests on the seabed at 15 meters. The aircraft lies inverted, with its wings and fuselage largely intact. The hull shows signs of damage consistent with explosive impact, and the interior compartments are accessible to divers. Over time, the wreck has become encrusted with coral and marine growth, transforming into an artificial reef that supports a variety of marine life. The relatively shallow depth and good visibility make the Emily flying boat wreck a popular dive site. It’s definitely not a tech dive.
Please contact me if you have updated information on the condition of the wrecks.